TAKE ONE:
Real value at Lombardo’s
By Alan Bedenko
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Prosciutto-wrapped figs stuffed
with gorgonzola. Photo by kc kratt. |
Lombardo’s Ristorante on Hertel Avenue fed me. It fed my hunger not only for excellent food and service, but also for a different kind of Italian cuisine; the kind that goes way beyond spaghetti parm and rigatoni with chicken. Don’t get me wrong; these things have their place, but to spend a quiet evening enjoying a leisurely dining experience—you need something more.
Lombardo’s delivers.
Except for one thing. The starter I wanted to order—prosciutto-wrapped figs stuffed with gorgonzola—was unavailable. That was literally the only disappointment I experienced that night. It was a relatively crushing disappointment, only because the description of that dish literally makes my mouth water (even now). Instead, we opted for the Caesar salad, which our server expertly made at our table. Oh, and it was outstanding. We also tried the spiedini del giorno, which changes daily. That night, it involved lamb skewers served with a Mediterranean lemon yogurt, and it was wonderful. The tender, savory, flavorful meat went beautifully with the tart, citrusy yogurt. It didn’t quite fit the standard Italian food template, but it was still very Mediterranean. Above all, it was fresh and delicious.
We ordered grilled veal tenderloin served with toasted garlic greens, as well as a homemade veal and porcini ravioli with brown butter. I seldom take food home, but the portion here was ridiculously huge, and the tender, perfectly grilled veal was so tasty I was torn between whether to risk overeating or pack it up and save it for the next day’s lunch. The meat was charred perfectly from the grill, providing wonderful texture on top of the flavor. The ravioli was tender and savory, a great accompaniment to this excellent dish. Everything was down-to-earth, from the food to the service.
We also ordered tuna served with arugula, avocado, and lobster. Served with wonderfully sweet, ripe heirloom tomatoes, the sesame-crusted tuna was tender and delicious, and beautifully presented on the fresh, rich salad.
The quality of the service was impeccable. From the moment we were warmly greeted by the maitre d’ right down to the superbly attentive and polite waitstaff, we thoroughly enjoyed every minute of our leisurely dinner. Lombardo’s is well-regarded as one of the finest restaurants in town. Although it has a reputation for being a special-occasion-type-place, it is genuinely ideal for just about any occasion, and you get real value for your money.
Lombardo’s Ristorante
1198 Hertel Ave., Buffalo
873-4291
Alan Bedenko is a lawyer who lives in Clarence with his wife and daughter.
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