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Summer wine:
where to go
By Mark Criden; illustration by
Jean-Pierre Thimot
It’s July in Buffalo and despite the hassle of crossing the border, I’m heading back to Ontario wine country. So should you.
As Spree readers know, the Niagara Escarpment—stretching from Vineland/Jordan to a narrow strip just past St. Catherines called the Beamsville Bench—is perhaps the most promising natural winemaking region between California and France. I’ve reported on these two areas before. (See the archived issues of September 2005 and July/August 2006.) It was time for a follow-up to my four favorite wineries. Unfortunately, this visit proved yet again that even though every bottle of wine tells a story, not every story has a happy ending.
Just past Beamsville, heading west on Regional Road 81, you’ll hit Daniel Lenko Estate Winery, one of Ontario’s most exciting wineries, and a definite step backwards in time. No sleek tasting rooms or polished Riedel here, where tastings are conducted in Lenko’s kitchen and Dan’s dad Bill—the doyen of Ontario Vinifera—passes out samples of homemade apricot jam. No bribe was necessary because Dan remains a hugely talented winegrower making beautiful, handcrafted wines. His 2006 Unoaked Chardonnay ($240 for twelve), the essence of lean, crisp, cool-climate chard was bested only by the intense 2005 Signature Chardonnay ($40) a doppelganger for a great Premier Cru Meursault. The 2006 Viognier was unavailable, which was sad, since the 2003 version was the greatest Viognier I have experienced outside the Rhone valley.
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| Summer Wine: What to think My pal Howard wonders how I can hold myself out as a wine know-it-all considering my unwavering conviction that nobody knows anything. This cultural nihilism—coined by screenwriter Robert Towne to explain why Hollywood is perpetually unable to guess what will become a hit—does not, however, mean that given enough experience, one can’t gain perspective, which is a damn sight different than knowledge. Lately, the dogs of wine research forgot that difference and have been nipping at the heels of us so-called wine critics. According to the newly published The Wine Trials by Robin Goldstein, 100 wines under $15 consistently outperformed more expensive bottles. In particular, a $10 Domaine Ste. Michelle sparkler from Washington outscored the far pricier Dom Pérignon, while the infamous Two-Buck Chuck Cabernet Sauvignon bested a $55 Napa Valley cab. In a second widely publicized experiment, California researchers showed that the higher the price, the more consumers like a wine. Put a $100 wine in a $5 bottle and presto, instant swill. Cloth a $5 wine in a pricey bottle, and, voila, nirvana. Both studies light Towne’s dictum in neon: wine snobs know nothing, or certainly no more than you. But both are kissing cousins to the blind-tasting parlor trick where a so-called expert is called on to recognize unidentified wines, an exercise famous for embarrassing results. And both studies, in my perspective, are laughable. That folks inherently believe that price has a direct relation to quality is hardly limited to the wine world. We’re all susceptible to the hype that accompanies conspicuous consumption, whether the arena is food, automobiles, vacations, or wine. Somewhere between the Ford and the Ferrari, our sense of reason evaporates into dreams of glory. Similarly, it’s preposterous to state that there are a hundred wines that fight above their weight, when wine enthusiasts—whether reputable merchants or ink-stained wretches like me—know that the truth is probably a thousand wines consistently deliver regular knock-out blows to higher priced competitors. But how do we find out which wines are the best values, which outshine pricier counterparts, and which ones are toilet water regardless of packaging? Experience, brother, experience. Critics—and enthusiasts in general—understand that nothing matters like context. In any field of appreciation, experience counts. The perspective to say, with conviction, why this is better than that, derives from having widely sampled across the field of play, across all price ranges, for many years. This doesn’t mean our ability to pick one wine over another is infallible. I, for one, won’t do blind tastings or other “gotcha” type events because I’m aware that I don’t know anything. But I’ve experienced a lot and hope that helps you pick the rich, zesty—and $17—2005 Château de Maligny Chablis Vieilles Vignes, a white Burgundy from the Macon over some blowsy $75 California Chardonnay. And if you don’t like it, and think it’ll help you feel better, I’ll put it in a fancy bottle for you. —M.C. |
The stunningly beautiful Malivoire Wine Company, my other standout winery from Beamsville, was a disappointment this time around. Perhaps nature has been less kind in the intervening years, but I found little worth a second sip. Tasted, but not recommended: 2005 Moira Chardonnay ($36); 2007 Chardonnay Musque ($20); 2005 Gamay ($17); 2005 Pinot Noir ($32); 2006 Late Harvest Gewürztraminer ($26).
Things got back on track at Cave Springs Cellars, smack in the middle of Jordan, where a flight of 2006 Rieslings was magnificent. The semidry Riesling, while not likely to make you forget the great Spatlesen of the Mosel, was a delicious, smaller wine, as was their Dry Riesling, also clearly designed to be a crowd pleaser. Both are $14. Quality ratcheted up considerably with the Dolomite Riesling ($16), a reference to the limestone soils that bejewel the escarpment. This gem was brimming with apple, peach, and grapefruit aromas and flavors. Walk, don’t run to get your case. The $30 CSV Riesling was stunning, a kaleidoscope of flavors, complete and complex as any Riesling in the world. If you’re lucky, you’ll also own some of the winery’s luscious Indian Summer Late Harvest Riesling ($25), or the fantastic, multidimensional Riesling Icewine. For $60, it’s a party in your mouth.
Finally, we stopped at the great Creekside Estate Winery in Jordan Station. Yes, I tasted other wines later that day that were as satisfying and just as companionable at the dinner table. But nowhere was I rocked with the sense of uncompromising quality and creative distinction as here. As I’ve said before, winemakers Craig McDonald and Rob Power are the most creative, innovative, and ingenuous winemaking team in Canada.
While’s there’s plenty of quality juice at the entry level here, your jaw will really drop when the winery pulls out its top bottlings. The 2004 Reserve Meritage jumped from the glass; succulent and brimming with cool, dark fruits, this wine would be a dead ringer in a flight of second-growth Bordeaux from a good vintage and is a steal at $35. The real star, though, is Shiraz. The 2006, all black fruit and woodsmoke, is a $16 tart of a wine, planting a wet kiss on the most jaded of palates. But it’s just a novice compared to the unbelievable $32 2005 Broken Press Shiraz, the best red wine I’ve ever tasted from Niagara. Powerful and rich, sweetened with Viognier, this is a gorgeous, gorgeous wine, a tribute to the talent of the team here and world-class Syrah, making you wish McDonald and Power had their own patch of Hermitage.
Like the Niagara wine region in general, the folks behind Creekside just go from strength to strength.
| Summer Wine: What to drink Where better to turn for wine tips than that bastion of summer heat, the Western Mediterranean? There, when it’s crazy hot and the a/c is on the fritz, locals turn to the highly aromatic and dramatically refreshing Vermentino. Grown for at least 700 years, grape historians debate whether Vermentino got its start in Northern Italy, Sardinia, or Spain. Today, although it’s produced primarily in Sardinia, Liguria, and Corsica, this delicious wine is increasingly being planted in coastal Tuscany, where it’s reaching unheard-of heights. It’s also showing well in Southern France (where it’s called “Rolle”), and, surprisingly, central California. Vermentino is a wine that loves the heat. When picked early to retain bright acidity, it produces juicy, lively flavors of green apple, lemon, lime, and honey, heightened by refreshing acidity, good richness, and medium body.The wine’s crispness proves a great foil to fresh seafood and grilled vegetables. You can spend up to $30 for the best examples, but $15 should return change for most. Stick with the 2006 and 2007s. Recommended producers: Central Tuscany: Guado al Tasso Bolgheri, Acquabona Toscana, Magliano Maremma Pagliatura, Colle Massari Melaccia Toscana, Michele Satta Bolgheri La Costa di Giulia, Moris Farms della Maremma Toscana, Poggio Argentiera Guazza Ansonica e Maremma Toscana. Sardinia: Fratelli Pala 2006 “Crabilis,” Argiolas, Dettori, Cantina Santadi Cala Silente. Liguria: Bruna Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato le Russeghine. This tiny estate makes this wine from Pigato, a close relative of Vermentino. Intense and ridiculously delicious, this is concentrated and sumptuous, like Vermentino on steroids. Twenty-seven bucks, but worth it. Also for $27—and also worth it—the 2006 Tablas Creek Vineyard Vermentino Paso Robles is an astonishing American white wine. Racy yet subtle, this crisp, dry, rich beauty has a long, persistent finish and an intense, though balanced, personality. —M.C. |
Mark Criden (mcriden@yahoo.com) is a nonprofit executive and the former chair of the Buffalo Branch of the International Wine & Food Society.
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